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May 9, 2013

Bella Bologna!

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , — Darren Hackett @ 2:07 pm

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It is spring so a visit to Bologna was on the cards.  Bologna is not in Tuscany it is over the Appenines in the Emilia-Romagna region.  However, it is only 70 miles from Casa Verde and well worth the trip.  Florence may be the star attraction and must-see hereabouts and, of course, we must all go and see the art and sights of that great city.  For me Bologna is a more beautiful city overall and bustling, not with thousands of tourists, but with local Bolognese and thousands of students…it is the Oxford of Italy.

I drove the car from Vellano through the hills above CasaVerde into the higher Appenines, winding and twisting through many mountain villages and onto the Passa  di Porrettana to Porretta Terme.  Here you are already in Emilia but still high up at a small, but smart spa town.  I took a coffee and then caught the train for an hour from Porretta to Bologna.  A pleasant journey over clear rushing rivers and through numerous tunnels; then arriving at Bologna Centrale railway station.  It is then a pleasant walk into the historical heart of the city.

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What is Bologna famous for?  Well it is the site of the world’s oldest university (1088); and there is an interesting set of old university buildings, especially the fantastically painted ceilings of the bibliotecca.  It is the birthplace of  Guiglielmo Marconi (1874 – 1937), the pioneer of wireless technology (my isn’t he responsible for a lot!).  It is famous for food….it is the food capital of Italy, mainly because so much is grown and harvested on the fertile plains of the region.  The lovely old streets of the city are full of interesting restaurants and bistrots, where you can eat, for example, the famous meat ragu sauce served with macaroni, or taglitelli, or lasagne……..but NEVER with spaghetti (you will find it hard to get Spaghetti Bolognese in Bologna!).  Bologna is one of the wealthiest cities in Italy because of food and technology industries; but it is not an expensive place to visit; only if you want to shop in the designer stores in Galleria Cavour.

I love the old streets here with so many pretty squares to sit in, under the shade of the trees.  Otherwise dramatic medieval squares like the one pictured above called San Stefano, and Piazza Maggiore.  The covered porticoes that line the streets make pleasant walking and shopping on hot or rainy days.

It is spring now and in full swing, the road and hills covered in the many shades of vivid green, the extra rain of the winter has enhanced the affair and we took this lovely photo down in an area called the Padule on the valley floor; a few weeks ago.

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February 3, 2013

The Forgotten Village

Florence & Walk 042

Here in the Valleriana, it is late winter and it especially quiet during a season that has been wetter than normal.  Many people are away in other parts of the world, there are some happy visitors, but we are ready for the Spring and the new season.  This is the time of the year to climb up the hills and mountains (see previous post) and recently we visited the abandoned village of Lignana, high up the mountain of the same name.  Monte Lignana is visible from the west side of Vellano, a sharp wooded peak that from a distance does not show it’s secret past, it’s ruined mountain village hidden in the trees.  In the 14th century, during wars between Florence, Lucca and Pisa, so the fable goes, the women of the village fed-up with being left with all the work to do, poverty and being left alone by the men going to war, decided to leave the village and burnt it to the ground and moved down the hill to the village of Sorana.  The area of the village they moved to was named ‘Paradiso’ by the locals because of the beauty of the women of Lignana.

One does not wish to ruin a good story with reality, but the likelihood is that the village was destroyed by one or other of invading armies, or that life high up the mountain just became too difficult, and the locals left.  Nevertheless, the village became abandoned, forgotten and deserted.  The area of Sorana could just as easily have been called ‘Paradiso’ because of the spectacular views from this particular part of the valley.  Lignana remains as a Church with a chapel of ease, still maintained by locals, and those interested in it’s history.  The ruins of other buildings mark the spot as do the remains of what must have been imposing walls.  It has a very strange, spiritual atmosphere that pervades this damp and overgrown place, and one can understand why people chose not to live here anymore despite it’s beauty.  At this time of year, in such a wonderfully strange and peaceful place as this, one is left to ponder about why people move to different places,  for what reasons and to think about what and who they have left behind.

Talking of beauty.  We visited Florence on Christmas Eve and Darren took these photographs of some of the posh shop windows.

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And another:  Happy New Year!

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For more photos of Florentine Christmas windows, see ‘Casa Verde’ on Facebook.

December 18, 2012

Christmas: A most ‘wander-full’ time of the year.

Vellano Snow 2012 www.tuscanyholidays-casaverde.com - Holidays Accommodation & B&B Vellano near Pisa, Lucca & FlorenceWe wish you a Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year from Casa Verde, especially all our visiting guests and friends this year to our house in the hills above Pescia in Tuscany.  We have had our first snow a few weeks ago, as pictured here.  Hopefully, we are now set for some dry, crisp and brilliantly sunny winter days.  These are the days to venture out on one of our favorite activities….walking around these spectacular mountains and valleys.  OK we may not be as adventurous as some of our guests, who really tramped around for miles in the heat of the summer (Yes! I mean you Peter, Yoshiko and your family).  For us it is in the winter when the days still linger long past 5 o’clock in the afternoon and the clarity of the air means that from any vantage point you can see so far, and every line and crevice in the mountains and in the valley bottom is sharply defined.  A day out with a tasty picnic and a hot drink, a camera and a bar of chocolate is the perfect way to spend a day here.  Then to return back to Casa Verde, light the wood-burning  ’stufa’ and settle down by the fire. (Yes we are open for business in the Winter and there is now a new wood-burner & new double glazing in the apartment!!)

One of our favourite recent walks was to cross over from our valley (The Valleriana) over into the Lima Valley near Bagni di Lucca, to the precipitous mountain village of Lucchio.

Croce di Veglia in Montana November Walk www.tuscanyholidays-casaverde.com

We drove to the higher village of Pontito, about 6 miles up the valley from Vellano, and parked the car just above.  from there walking up the hill a little way we came to a place called Croce di Veglia.  This lovely spot that name literally means a crossroads, a meeting place and has a small chapel of ease (pictured above).  Here there a numbers of footpaths (sentieri) that stretch in various directions on top of, or down the hillsides.  We took a path over the top northward down a wide track towards the village of Lucchio.  From the first few steps we can see the Lima valley and the higher Appennines climbing up to the ski resort of Abetone.  Waterfalls, stone quarries and tree-lined valleys show the various tributaries that run down into the Lima on it’s way down to Lucca and the sea.  There is the constant sound of bells in the air and down to the right below the path is a goatherd and their keeper sitting and resting in a grassy clearing, below our path, he says good morning.  These are ancient routes taken by invaders and defenders over many thousands of years, and the cliff top castle and village of Lucchio is an ancient and spectacular reminder of the importance of these old routes and it’s fantastic geographical position.

Luccio Clings to the Hillside

As you can see the village is very steep and as we climb up the rocky, almost deserted streets to the ‘Rocca’, the castle above the town, you can see why it is there.  There are dizzying falls down three sides of the hill on which the castle stands, and incredible views down and up the valley on each side.  The sun is warm, the grass is dry….this has to be the most spectacular picnic spot we have ever had the privilege to enjoy.  We hope you have a fantastic Christmas ‘picnic’ too!

Malcolm and Darren

PS Please ‘Like’ Amici di Vellano, Friends of Vellano’ on Facebook

WORLD CYCLING CHAMPIONSHIPS – SEPTEMBER 2013 IN TUSCANY!

October 15, 2012

Cycling Mania In Tuscany

The UCI World Cycling Championships 2013 in Tuscany!

These run from September 22nd to September 29th 2013, with race starts in Lucca and Montecatini Terme

Here is the happy Canadian Fred McGuire, who stayed at Casa Verde this summer.  (Fred is that a bottle of Chianti on the bike frame?) He is happy for us to report about his cycling adventures here in the hillside and mountains that are a training ground for the world’s best cyclists.  Mark Cavendish is a local resident in the Pistoia area!  Every weekend there are hundreds of aspiring Bradley Wiggins in their multi-coloured tight-fitting lycra ascending the steep hills and bends up and around the Valeriana.

Fred hired his bicycle from ChronoBikes (www.chronobikes.com…….an excellent web-site by the way) in Lucca at what he described as a very reasonable rate (25 Euros per day) in the peak of the summer weather….brave guy.  I would probably manage about 100 metres up these mountain roads but to healthy enthusiasts these hills are perfect for a Tuscany cycling holiday.

We recently ventured on a little holiday of our own to South East Tuscany and Umbria.  There are so many variations on the historic Italian themes of mountain villages, olive groves and ancient churches.  Here in Vellano it is the dramatic steep green hillsides, castellated villages and orange-red terracotta roofs.  In Umbria it is the beautiful gentle rolling hills, the light orange/pink stone upon Romanesque cathedrals…..’the land of the saints’.

Here is the central square in Bevagna, an ancient Roman town with two of the loveliest and most atmospheric of Romanesque churches.  The little walled town has a lovely warm atmosphere with a number of excellent restaurants and food shops that make it culinary delight along with the excellent local Montefalco red wines, local truffles and mushrooms…..deep, earthy and rich.  One particular local delicacy is  Gnocchi Sagratino; which is gnocchi in a rich Montefalco red wine sauce.  It is a very good idea to combine one weeks visit to Casa Verde and the spectacle of Northern Tuscany with another week in the peace and tranquility of South Eastern Tuscany/Umbria.

July 23, 2012

New Look Casa Verde – The Wall

Filed under: Uncategorized — Darren Hackett @ 10:18 am

Just a very brief addition to our blog.  We have designed and constructed a new wall and balustrade for the main house of which we are very proud.  Here it is:

 

Summer Feste

In Tuscany, at this time of the year, there are plenty of superb summer festivals. In particular, many music and arts events to keep visitors entertained.  Particularly impressive are the many local festivals that nearly every small town has which draw the crowds from both from the local population and from the millions of visitors to the Tuscany region.  There are a number of all-night events in towns through the season where bric-a-brac and antique stalls, food vans and restaurants vie with music and art displays called La Nottambula ( I think it means something like, moving all night!). These begin at about 7 pm in the evening and go on until 5 am in the morning!  It is an Italian tradition that has been encouraged by local councils in these times of austerity to drum up more trade.  The one in Pescia attracted thousands of people, boy they do not do things by halves in Italy!

 For music fans there is the annual Lucca Festival where this year’s featured artists included  Duran Duran (are they really still playing!), Tom Petty and Kasabian.  They have been rocking fans in the town’s Piazza Napoleone.  However, this year we chose to go to the Pistoia Blues Festival in Piazza Duomo where the Scottish singer Paolo Nutini ( Pictured above, who’s father is from the Barga near Lucca.) gave a fantastic performance of  blues and soul songs.  See play list and other details www.paolonutini.com.

Pistoia Torre del Doumo

 The concert was attended by around 4000 people and there was a lovely atmosphere throughout Pistoia for the whole evening.  Tickets for next years events and for this and the Lucca Festival can be found on the following links.

www.pistoiablues.com and www.summer-festival.com

Blurry image of Paolo Nutini on Stage

Vellano has not missed out, there have been events that take place from time to time.  Last Friday there was as Pink Floyd tribute band in the village square.  The sound of electric guitar strings echoing around the hill sides.

The great thing about living here is that you never need to worry about dining out of doors of an evening, the weather is invariably dry and warm.  Wherever you are there are the inviting smells of food being cooked and served, at a gentle chattering pace.  As well as local residents there are many people visiting Vellano who have holiday homes here who visit only occassionally but are invariably around in July and August.  It is always good to see them again and it also means an abundance of social life, food and good chatter.  We would like to thank them for making our quiet life here especially pleasurable.

June 4, 2012

Parco Villa Reale

The Villa Reale near Lucca Tuscany

Last June we published an article on the Villa Torrigiani, one of many villas and parks in the Lucca/Pescia area.  The Palazzo of the Villa Reale is no longer open to the public unfortunately.  The stucco crumbling from some of it’s elegant walls testimony to the fact that it’s current owner now have neither the money or the will to renovate this once proud house.  However the park and gardens are open, and what a joy they are.  Extensive lawns and formal gardens descend the gentle slopes toward a lake in grand vistas, with superb mountainous specimen trees in magnificent clusters.

Garden Face in the Spanish Garden Villa Reale

The house was once owned by the Princess Elisa, Napoleon’s sister and sovereign of Lucca and Tuscany.  It was also home to a Irish woman, Penelope Smyth of Ballynatray who had married Prince Charles of Capua in the mid 19th century.  Now that’s a holiday home if you like.  The prince was disinherited because he eloped with Penelope to Gretna Green,  The royal family were later reconciled and she became the Princess of Capua.  At any rate the house has an illustrious history and the gardens continue the romantic theme.  There is a lovely topiaried open air theatre where Paganini, the violinist, once entertained guests; formal gardens with fountains and many statues; grottos with interesting carved stone faces; a Spanish garden, all replanted and restored in the early part of the 20th Century.

Everything is well at Casa Verde for the start of summer here, our third season, and we have guests arriving a very regular basis now.  After a very showery spring this year everything is especially green and the trees are laddened with many sets of fruit.  However dangers are always afoot down on the vegetable patch!  A giant slug may at any moment be about to chew up your courgettes, a porcupine may leave an incriminating black and white quill where your potatoes used to be, a deer may have rooted around and dug up your cucumber plants.  So this year has been, aside from considering camping out with a gun, has been about putting up the defences; wires and barriers to keep them out….several plantings later we are finally winning the battle.

The 'Grotta del Dio Pan' Villa Reale

April 6, 2012

Palm Sunday

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , , , , , — Darren Hackett @ 11:00 am

 

In Tuscany we have been having some warm and benign weather after the chills of February;  indeed we are here in Florence on Palm Sunday.  Here, there is a quietly joyous feel about the city in the balmy sunshine,  everyone seems intoxicated and dreamy in the breezy spring weather, anticipating Easter (or Pasqua).  In front of the Pitti Palace there is a Palm Sunday parade, a priest leads a procession through the streets of choirboys and parishioners each carrying either a palm frond or a sprig of olive branch.  There is a sense of calm and peaceful solemnity among the crowds.  There are the tourists now beginning to throng the piazzas and museums.  There are locals carrying newly bought Easter eggs, great chocolate ovals wrapped in colourful shiny paper.  There are people carrying picnic lunches to eat by the Arno, watching their children play on the swings.  There are lovers kissing on the Ponte Vecchio or having their photographs with the Doumo in the background.  No rushing or shouting, no anxiety or strain just a quiet anticipation of summer.

We visited the Boboli gardens today.  The entrance fee is only 7 euros (pay at the gate) and it is well worth the price.  The gardens are one of the oldest of it’s type in the world and spread over 11 acres at the rear of the imposing and stark home of the Medicis’ Pitti Palace.  They were laid out between 1550 and 1630 by a variety of creators including Vasari. There are long wide avenues with planted hedges that open into circular spaces with spectacular fountains and statues dedicated to roman gods (the essence of the renaissance).  More intimate, sheltered walkways climb through the woods.  Boxed hedges and evergreens mean that the gardens are always fantastic at all seasons of the year.  There is an amphitheatre with an ancient obelisk and other wide spaces where people lay on the grass and take in the glittering views of the city below.  These people of leisure and relaxation have been coming here for this kind of peace for many generations and when you are here in spring you feel part of a wonderful, graceful and very Italian tradition.

January 29, 2012

Winter in Vellano

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , , , , , , , , , — Darren Hackett @ 3:37 pm

 

We hope you all had as lovely Christmas and New Year, as we had here.  The weather was mild and sunny this year and there was lots to to do and people to see, including our friends and neighbours.  Aren’t Christmas decorations interesting in Italy!  There are lots of plastic Santa Claus’ flapping about precariously from chimney tops and climbing up traditional green Tuscan shutters.  Plenty of lights illuminating the trees in the road and one enterprising villager who is a big fan (tifoso) of the nearest Serie A football team which is in Florence, called AC Fiorentina.  He had a huge purple/violet Christmas tree surrounded by an arched doorway of violet lights.  Fiorentina incidently play in the colour violet (never seen in England you understand!).  This colour apparently originates from the original red and white city colours they used to play in.  The shirts were apparently then washed one day in the river Arno and the colours bled to form this particularly lurid and striking colour.  Fiorentina may not be Italy’s most successful team but they are the most beautifully equipped. What would you expect from Italy’s most stylish city.

The Padule near Monticatini Tuscany Italy - www.tuscanyholidays-casaverde.com

Everything seems quiet in Tuscany now.  There are not many visitors, no festivals or holidays yet. While the sun can be beautifully strong when it is out there are chilly nights to be had and there is a great sense of waiting in the air.  An anticipation of things to come.  Many people, including ourselves are preparing for spring; digging and clearing terraces and gardens, burning the debri in evocative plumes of smoke all over the sides of the valley.  Chopping the peices of wood that remain for winter fires now and for winters to come.  We have already seen some daffodils blooming in some sheltered spots and the primulas are bursting forth on the banksides.  However it is not spring yet and there is always the possibility of snow through February that may yet settle on the Mimosa and Camelias; the latter now being in flower.  What to grow this year apart from the usual.  We have planted garlic already, but what else that maybe different, peppers, asparagus, some more fruit trees….there is plenty of time at this stage of the year to wonder and plan before the hard work begins.

 

The Italian Cowboy at Lucca Tsucany Italy - www.tuscanyholidays-casaverde.com

We have to show you this lovely creature – the cow-boy!  There is an amazing emporium just outside Lucca called Mercatino Usato (used market), that occupies a very large warehouse.  It sell everything you can think of.  Much of this is used stuff that is tatty and stood in the store for many years but there are some wounderful peices of Rococo furniture inside, marble statuary, kitchen cupboards, picture etc.  Outside there are grand old peices of garden iron mongery that would only fit in the garden of some large old villa or palazetto, swings, garden benches, pergolas a plenty.  However nothing quite sums up Mercatino Usato quite like this little beast.  We hope that regular readers of our blog will be able to find him a suitable name!

December 23, 2011

A Very Merry Christmas from Tuscany

We cannot believe that another wonderful year has gone by and nearly two years since we first moved to Casa Verde.  Here in the hills it is sunny again after a very fierce storm with high gusty winds last week, unlike last Christmas we currently have no snow.  This is just a little ironic as many of the regions of Tuscany have just introduced a new law that says all automobiles must carry snow chains or have snow tyres fitted between the middle of November and the middle of April. 

This year we have continued to improve Casa Verde for visitors and ourselves.  The gardens are becoming more open and cultivated month by month, including the planting of eight new olive trees.  The house has had new outside lighting installed, new windows in the lower part of the house, a new gravelled parking area and new paint here and there, so more and more it feels like an attractive home for us and a beautiful holiday hideaway for our visitors.

It has been a difficult year for Italians and the Italian economy, but despite ‘austerity measures’ the Italian people will always give visitors a generous welcome and offer good quality food and service to their guests. We have had a very successful year for visitors with more than eighteen weeks of bookings, mainly of course in the summer.  We already have six weeks booked for 2012, and despite the apparent gloom of another recession, high fuel and food prices we are very confident that we will be able to offer our customers a good value and exciting holiday here in the Tuscan hills.  Our visitors last year came from Australia, Poland, France, The Netherlands, Israel, Italy, The Czech Republic, The USA and Denmark as well as the UK and with the Euro crisis it does mean some improvement in the exchange rates for holidays into the Euro zone.

The festive season here is shorter than in the UK but just as crazy in the shops.  Though where you find a nice fruit and nut Christmas cake and a good wedge of Wensleydale cheese is beyond us!  It all begins officially on the 8th of December on the feast of the Immaculate Conception when everyone puts up their decorations (rarely before) and ends at Epiphany on the 6th of January when children traditionally get their presents (this is fortunately not much adhered to anymore).

Darren and Malcolm (Our cats Caramella and Alfie.) send our warm wishes for the festive season, with our love and great anticipation for 2012, to all our missed family, friends and guests a Happy New Year.

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